The Heart of Moorea

Sister Island to Tahiti, Moorea is the second most popular tourist destination in French Polynesia. Here, volcanic explosions produced dramatic valleys rich with vegetation; dazzling bays, beaches and a turquoise lagoon within a surrounding coral reef; and nine jagged peaks that rise from the horizon. Moorea was, after all, the inspiration for the mythical Bali Hai of James Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific, immortalized in the popular musical South Pacific.

The 50-square-mile, heart-shaped island lies 11 miles across the Sea of the Moon from Tahiti. It’s a world apart - by Polynesian standards - from the bustling gateway city of Papeete. In fact, most of Papeete’s inhabitants regularly sail back and forth between both worlds.

Who vacations there? Island lovers, honeymooners, couples looking for a luxurious getaway, culture seekers and divers.

Attractions: the landscape is the main attraction, and there are many opportunities to explore it. A tour circling the island’s 39-mile circumference is a must. Guests take detours to Belvedere Lookout for a breathtaking view of the historical twin bays: Cook’s and Opunohu, as well as the vanilla, pineapple and coconut groves of the interior. At Afareaitu Waterfall, visitors can cool off with local families in the sparkling basin. All area hotels offer a variety of island-tour packages, as well as car, moped and bicycle rentals.

Accommodations: One-third of French Polynesia’s hotel rooms are on Moorea. In contrast to equally beautiful, better known Bora-Bora, Moorea offers hotels with a wide price range from which to choose. As for luxury hotels, Moorea has two, each with distinctive personalities. The Hotel Sofitel Ia Ora, about a mile from airport, is an expansive resort with a feel of a luxurious, but informal, tropical camp. Located on probably the finest beach on the island, the property has 110 thatched-roof bungalows (33 beach, 47 garden, 10 deluxe overwater). Rooms are spacious, combining Polynesian style decor with full amenities. Prices range are from $250 to $480 per night.

At the Beachcomber Park Royal a vast, lavish reception area gives an air of tropical sophistication to this large resort. The property has 148 units, including beaches and overwater bungalows. Built in 1987, and often upgraded, the grounds are lush with well-tended flora. A man-made lagoon provides for excellent swimming. Bungalows are elegant and bright with large bathrooms and full amenities. Price ranges from $280 to $400 per night.

Both resorts have pools, tennis courts and a full range of activities, including snorkeling, scuba diving, windsurfing, water skiing and deep-sea fishing. Polynesian dance shows and barbecues are offered twice weekly. There are two notable mid-range properties. The 62-unit Bali Hai Moorea is popular among American tour groups and locals. Built by three Californian adventures in the 1960s, the property has a funky, relaxed ambiance, and the bar is legendary for its happy hour. The 13 rooms are basic, but the overwater bungalows are excellent - offering one of the best deals on the island. Prices are from $100-130 per night. The Cook’s Bay Resort Hotel has been called the best buy in Tahiti, due to its location on a scenic Cook’s Bay; turn of the century, plantation style architecture; prices ranging from $70-100 per night. The hotel does not have a beach, but guests can swim off the pier, and there is a swimming pool. The 70 rooms and 24 bungalows are small, basic and with views of the bay.

Dining: many of the island’s restaurants are concentrated around Cook’s Bay. In the higher price range, the floating Le Bateau, a former ferry moored at the end of the pier on the Linareva Hotel grounds, features a natural setting, panoramic views, selection of fresh seafood, French cuisine and a wine list.

Getting there: Air France, Corsair, Air New Zealand and AOM French Airlines make the 7.5 hour flight from Los Angeles to Papeete. From there, 7 minute flight on Air Moorea to Moorea’s Temae Airport or a 30-minute catamaran ride from the ferry quad in Papeete.

Conclusion: The natural beauty of the South Pacific island, and a multitude of water and land activities make it one of French Polynesia’s best options.