We had a great time there. We flew to SXM non-stop from JFK. From SXM we flew a little plane - Tyden Air. It takes 6 minutes. We did it first time and it was fun.  

Stayed at Blue Water Apartments on Shoal Bay West. It is private secluded, long beach which is shared by Blue Waters, CoveCastles, Chuck Norris's house and Paradise Cafe. The most busy time on the beach there were about 10 people. The apartments are right on the beach.

Some parts of the beach is coral, and some is really fine white sand so it is good for both snorkeling and swimming. Only 1 day there was seaweed on the sand.

Blue Water apartments turned out to be much more than we expected. For 4 of us (parents and 2 kids, Ed - 17, Michael - 8) we had 2 huge bedrooms and bathrooms, living room, kitchen and 2 big balconies where we ate. We were on second floor, but I liked first floor better. You can come out right from your patio on the beach, from second floor you have to walk around.

There were about half of the guests with kids with some as little as 1 year old. I have to tell you, that for those who are seeking organized activities for kids, with video games, etc, you probably would not like it.

They would better off at Sapphire Beach or Boscobel or somewhere else. It is not full service resort. If your kids are happy with snorkeling, and building sandcastles on the beach, this is the place to be. It is safe place and we let kids hang around on the beach by themselves. We've been to many islands and I would not do it anywhere else.

Blue Water is not fancy. They do have maid service 6 times a week (not on Sunday). But they do not change sheets, only towels including beach towels daily. No fancy toiletries, just 1 bar ivory soap per bathroom. Bring your own shampoo, lotion. If you want twice a day maid service, toiletries, next door Covecastles have it, but they are more expensive. Per my request, the owner did initial shopping for me, so we were able to relax on the beach after arrival.

The rental car was delivered the first day to the resort and we were ready to start our adventure. People are friendly, and it is the perfect safe island for the family to explore. We never locked apartment or car door, and at the end the car rental company told us to leave the car at the airport with keys in it!!!

However, it is very laid back and, when our hungry teenager was eager for food, he was disappointed couple of times that he had to wait. Us, we used to laid back Caribbean style of life and go with the flow. First lesson we learned - on this little island decent restaurants require reservations.

After driving in the dark in unfamiliar roads on wrong side (for us) and going to 2 restaurants, finally the manager of Covecastles apologized profusely that they could not accommodate us and suggested we try resort Coccoloba, where we were admitted and had West Indies buffet. Later every day the kids were reminding me: "Did you make reservations?"

As we knew before, the island is not pretty and it was dry season, but it is compensated by fabulous beaches. The prettiest was Shoal Bay East, but it was more commercial, less shade and crowded (by Anguilla standards - about 40 people on busy day). So, we stayed at Shoal Bay West since it was closer - right from the door :-) and quiet.

All our days were pretty much the same - we walked on the beach before breakfast while kids still slept. After breakfast we went on the beach, then rested before lunch, drove to town for lunch, (sometimes with kids, sometimes ourselves) did some shopping too, returned to the apartment, rested, beach again and dinner in the evening. Michael snorkeled most of the time and played in the sand.

Restaurants

Restaurants are top notch. Expensive, too. We generally enjoyed dinners. Some lunches we had were not impressive and menu was limited. Plus, we almost always were alone for lunch at restaurant - around 1 PM. Don't know why. Before going there I had some concerns for my little picky eater. I found when I was making reservation restaurants which did not have kids menus, when you tell them what he likes, and they prepared meal especially for him. Even the fancy restaurants, like Mango and Blanchards, just grilled simple chicken without sauce, how Mike likes, for him. At Paradise Cafe they baked pizza for him, and it was not on the menu. We really appreciated it. And I did not mind paying tips for this kind of service.

Smitty's - lobster was small, and ribs lacked meat, chicken and crayfish were good. Watched fisherman catching seafood. On the sand floor.   Ferryboat Inn - came there at 1 pm. Nobody was there. The lady who did not look like a waiter at all asked what do we want. We asked to look at the menu. She said chicken will take long time to cook. We settled for hamburgers. She brought us drinks and disappeared for a long time. Our teenager complained that McD burgers are cheaper and faster. Then the other guy came looking like an owner and started screaming at her in the kitchen. We did got served and the meal was good, but we waited for a loooong time and there nobody else was in the restaurant. So we wondered if we are at the right place and time. Left $60 for 3 hamburgers, 1 snapper and cokes.

Uncle Ernie's right on the beautiful Shoal Bay beach - went there without kids. It was the best lunch. The lady said it will take 30 min. So, we swam and waited with cokes for the food. She sat most of the time, sometimes turning food over.  Looks like she was not doing much, but the snapper and ribs and chicken were the best! $20.

La Fontana - also were there alone at 1 PM. It was nice and quiet. I hoped for the Italian Trattoria food, but for lunch - like everywhere else menu was rather limited - snapper, hamburgers. Had 3 hamburgers. Great homemade bread, and it was so big, that our 8 year old kid could not finish it, and we took it home for his brother to finish. $40 for 3 people.

Maybe we did not go to right places, but I expected lunches to be more creative. Maybe at hotels would be better - and we ate in local places. Couple of times had take out at Fat Cat gourmet, Le Bon Pain bakery and Vista Market. Good bread, butter like we used to have in Europe. But shopping alone cost as much as lunch at Ernie's.

Dinners - were highlight of the vacation. As I said, even in the best restaurants kids were welcome and the did special meal for my picky eater. No problem with teenager - he ate everything, including seafood and fish.  

First night - tried to get to Mango and Covecastles, but did not have reservation. Finally the manager of Covecastles, who apologized profusely that they cannot accommodate us, suggested to go to Coccoloba. We went there and had West Indies buffet. It was good, but again, buffet food - if you can eat a lot. They did not charge for Mike, but for 3 adults (I realized that now Ed became an adult) with 2 glasses of wine and 1 beer it came up $160. They do include tip in the bill, so do not overpay it. I asked if it was EC dollars, but it turned out to be US... First shock. Then you get used to the prices.

Second night - had dinner on our beach, Paradise Cafe - bistro, very good. They baked pizza especially for Mike, and waitress talked to kids about life in Anguilla. We had excellent rack of lamb and Ed had seafood. After this night they ran out of lobster on the island. Total for 4 with 2 glasses of wine, appetizer and dessert - key lime tart $145. Owner was checking all the time if everything OK.

Third night - Mango's. Best meal there - sesame snapper in soy sauce. I had swordfish in some exotic sauce, very good, I think I had lobster cakes for appetizer.  The grilled chicken Caesar Salad for Mike and we finished his salad. Ed had crawfish. With wine and appetizer, dessert and non-alcohol daiquiris $165 for 4.

Next - Blanchards. They also grilled chicken for Mike. It was really more exotic, like middle Eastern - Caribbean cuisine. It was very good, but not better than Mango's and it turned out to be the most expensive meal - $208 for 4.

Next night kids begged for the break from gourmet food and we went to Italian-American Arlos. Very nice. Nothing special, but very well prepared good old Italian food. Kids had pizza, which was big and we took it home to finish. I had baked mussels in wine and Parmesan cheese - very good, George - cream of vegetable soup and both of us had tortelini Alfredo. Came with garlic bread. Total $105 - without wine.

Top of the Palm at LaSirena hotel - very nice, me and Ed had crayfish, my husband  - spicy Mahi Mahi, they had kids menu for Mike. Key Lime tart for desert. They also served for starters a slice of eggplant with tomato and cheese on top - compliments of the chef. $147 without wine.

Last night we went to Pimms (Cap Juluca resort). For me, it was the best meal - me and Ed had beef tenderloin with potato leek pancake and onions - only French chefs could make it like this. Heaven! Also, lobster cakes were delicious. My husband had veal chop. They had quite impressive kids menu and Mike surprised us ordering fruit plate with yogurt. Poor kid got tired of  chicken. The fruit plate was huge with bananas, mangos, strawberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, starfruit (not like here in US, but more sweet) and something else. Then he ordered creme brulee, which was delicious, but huge. He started it, I continued and my husband finished it. It was superb.  Dinner for 4 without alcohol was $186. I liked it the most, they also had chef's compliments - some kind of soup - very tasty, but I could not figure out what was in there.

All restaurants - at least where we ate were located on the beach with gorgeous views. At 7 pm already was dark.. It was very nice to be able dine outside. All restaurants are casual. The only thing - portions were not large, except Pimms. But with appetizer and dessert, it's filling enough.

Hotels

I already mentioned about Blue Waters where we stayed. It is very nice property and off-season is a good deal (1br apt is $140, 2 br 160). Since some clients of mine were waiting for my Anguilla research, I visited some other hotels, but not many. I found out a long ago when trying to see too many properties, I would not remember much what and where. Anyway, here what we found:

Cap Juluca - they gave us a tour of the hotel and we visited 1 luxury room and 3 bedroom private villa. It is definitely on of the best hotels on the island. Not a chain, privately owned by 6 investors - South African, British and Americans. Immaculately maintained.  Wonderful beach. All rooms are oceanfront. Not all units have direct access to the beach, though. You have to walk around thru the path. Some corner units have private patio for private sunbathing with a shower. The resort is designed with a purpose give a feeling of seclusion and privacy, some kind of sensuality. The unit we saw also had second level for sunbathing. 3 Bedroom villa is completely private, with walls and a pool. Huge bathtubs for 2. The drawback of the resort? The price, of course :-). Luxury room cost from $335 to $575 per night depending on season plus tax, and 3 bedroom villa from $2700 to $3790 per night. Also I found it outrageous that extra twin bed in a room costs extra $75. For the price you are paying it should be included.  Another thing - the resort is very much spread out. Either you need a car or you call for a electric car and they drive guests where they have to. Only 3 and 5 bedroom villas come with a jeep. So, either rent a car which I beleive you need anyway on this island with great restaurants or you will be on a mercy of a staff who live on island time. The resort has special plans and programs for sport minded, honeymooners and welcomes families, too. They run kids program. We had dinner at Pimms, which in my opinion the best restaurant and they had impressive kids menu.

Casablanca - new resort (later becamse Sonesta Anguilla), about 2 years old. They will be still building villas. So far all rooms are luxury rooms, junior suit and 1 bedroom suite. It is all-inclusive and the Garden Luxury rooms are from $250 to $390, Junior suite from $300 to $465, 1 bedroom suite from $350 to $565 per person per night depending on season. They also have breakfast plan only.

Both Cap Juluca and Casablanca have Moorish architecture. Casablanca is owned by Saudi Arabian. He brought Moroccan artist to paint Moroccan design. It is just incredible hand work. You just can't take your eyes  away from it. Oceanfront rooms are closest to the beach, but again, no direct access. They have honeymoon special promotion. Actually, I liked it better than Cap Juluca. It is more compact. And with all-inclusive it is much better deal. No wonder Queen of England preferred <g>. She did had lunch at Cap, though... Actually, all restaurants the royal couple attended, have their pictures taken and proudly displayed. I highly recommend this place for romantic getaway.

Covecastles - luxury condos on Shoal Bay West, we stayed next to them. Don't have rates at my hand now, all I remember they are expensive. 2 level condos and 3 bedroom beach houses. Gorgeous private beach. No pool, but who needs it? Tennis court, boat instructions. French restaurant on premises. Very secluded and gives you feeling you live in your own house on the beach, not at hotel. Seen some skinny dippers in the morning. Hammocks on the terrace. Direct access to the sand from first floor.

On the less expensive side, Fountain Beach looked OK, but a little bit tacky. Cute tropical garden but the pool is small and dirty. Did not look at the rooms. Had lunch there. The beach is private, but not that nice as Shoal Bay by Ernie's. You would have to walk a while to get to the good sand for swimming.

Ferryboat Inn. We did not see apartments inside, but the property is looked neglected. Beach is small. Also, restaurant service was kind of strange, even though food was good.

Conclusion

Unspoiled. Quiet, little island with terrific people. This was the first island when we as tourists were respected and were not hassled. Nobody bothered us to buy something. Beaches are terrific and all different. We usually enjoy full all-inclusive resorts, but we found ourselves very happy and satisfied in a beach apartment. More space, and you have a feeling of your own place on your own beach. Very relaxing. I would not recommend for it for people looking for either lush scenery or a party life. No casinos (although you can get it at SXM nearby).